Free Pattern: Red, White, and Blue-kini Top

For me, summer starts with Memorial Day weekend. The local parks start to fill with people, Movement starts downtown, and there’s an absurd amount of fireworks going off in my neighborhood.

…Anyway, here’s a nice top to get you into the summer spirit!

I actually rushed this pattern to get it released before Memorial Day weekend, so if you start this pattern today it should be ready to go by tomorrow. This pattern would best fit A through C cups.

Keeping with my Cold Sheep Challenge and only using yarn I had in my stash, this was made with LeeWards’ Sport in the colorway Royal Blue (held double) and LeeWards’ Orlon Sayelle in Scarlet and White.

As this brand I have used has been discontinued, I recommend using Bernat Super Value in the colorways Berry, White and Royal Blue or Deborah Norville Everyday Worsted in the colorways in Really Red, White, and Royal Blue. Using Lion Brand’s 24/7 Yarn in the colorways Red, White, and Navy is another great option as it is a cotton yarn and would make your top more breathable in the summer heat!

Materials:

  • Worsted Weight yarn in Red, White, and Blue
  • G (4.25mm) hook (or one to meet gauge)
  • N (9.00 mm) hook or any larger hook size for attaching fringe

Gauge:

  • 8 dc = 2 inches (~5cm)
  • 4 rows of dc = 2 inches (~5 cm)

Stitches Used (with Moogly tutorials linked):

Special Stitches:

  • Triple Half Double Crochet Increase (3hdcinc): Hdc into the same stitch 3 times.

Additional Notes

  • Because of my tension I tend to use one less chain stitch when making my starting and turning chains, but for the sake of convenience for most crocheters, I’m using the “most standard” conventions (ch3 for a dc starting chain, etc) in the pattern.
  • Starting chains do not count as the first stitch.

Pattern:

Body

Row 1:88 FDC

Row 2: Chain 3, dc in the same st and across the row. Repeat until you have 4 rows of dc, including your foundation row. Break yarn, weave in ends, and set this part aside.

Cups (Make 2)

Row 1:Ch 14, hdc in the 3rd ch and across (10 hdc). At the final st (the first chain you made), hdc 3 times into the st, and hdc across the other side of the chain (23 hdc total). Turn your work.

Row 2: Ch 3, hdc until you reach the 3hdcinc, make a 3hdcinc in the first hdc of the increase. Hdc to the end of the row (26 hdc). Turn your work.

Repeat this increase row 8 more times and break your yarn, leaving around a foot and a half of yarn for attaching.

Not sure where to place your 3hdcinc? Here’s a diagram I drew:

svinxrn

Why don’t I do the increase in the middle hdc? I find that the work seems to slant a bit to one side if I do so. This may be because of my tension. If you prefer, feel free to make the increase in the middle of the increase.

Assembly

Place markers 22 sts from the left and right of the body, attaching the left and right ends of the cups using the yarn tails. Here’s another diagram to help you out:

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(I added the cups’ yarn tails to help with positioning)

Straps (for each cup)

With your blue yarn, sc2tog with the top two hdc of the cup. Starting with the left side of the sc2tog, make 32 FSC, ch 15, Break yarn and weave in ends.

Border:

With the right side of the work facing you and starting from the bottom of the right side of the piece, attach the blue yarn, ch 1, *sc, ch 3, sc into the same space, repeat from * three more times to end up with four loops for the corset segment. Sl st across until you reach the left end of the piece, repeat from * to complete the corset back, break yarn, weave in ends.

Even more diagrams!

oa6u9yh
Fringe Section

Row 1: With the right side of the work facing you, attach your white yarn to the first dc after the one used in making the bottom corset loop, ch 1, sc into the same st and across (86 sc).

Row 2: Ch 3, dc into the same st and the next, *ch 1, 2dc, repeat from * until you have 13 pairs of 2 dc, ch 1, 3dc, ch 2, 3dc, **ch 1, 2dc, repeat from ** until the end of the row (58 dc, 86 sts total).

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the same st and across (86 sc). Break yarn, weave in ends.

Fringe parts

Make 14 white and 12 red fringe parts, using 6 pieces of foot long yarn for each piece. For the red center section, use 10 pieces of 13-inch long yarn instead. Attach by folding the yarn in half, and pulling the loop through the ch 1 sections at the bottom, bringing the loop tot he front of the work, and pulling the free section of yarn through the loop. (Here’s a tutorial if you need help!) Trim the ends of the fringe to an even length, or you can do this cool chevron thing I did:

m9ewtxi

(This took a lot more measuring than I expected…)

The center fringe is 6.5 inches long starting at the knot, and for each fringe on either side I decreased the length by half an inch until the fringe length hit 3 inches. I trimmed a bit on the long side at first, then evened everything out. It’s kind of like giving your pieces a haircut!

Here’s the post-trim aftermath:

rywgcl0

If you’re a bit more conservative with your yarn, you may want to measure your fringe pieces before attaching. Starting from the center, the lengths to cut your yarn are 13 in, 12 in, 11.5 in, 11 in, 10.5 in, 10 in, 9.5 in, 9 in, 8.5 in, 8 in, 7.5 in, 7 in, and two 6 in pieces.

Corset Cord

Ch 150, Break yarn. Lace up the back.

Feel free to sell anything you make with this pattern, but please give credit to Cuddlelump Crafts in the listing or on the item tag. I put a ton of work into writing this up (and in such short time) and I’d appreciate it if you give credit where it’s due!

 

 

 

 

 

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7 thoughts on “Free Pattern: Red, White, and Blue-kini Top

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